Australia’s #1 site for DIY termite treatment and control.

To kill termite colonies, to defend your home, to do your research — click on one of these six links:

'How-to-advice' from the best. Save money and do a proper job, safely

“You can do the job yourself, properly, safely and save money.

Paying more doesn’t kill termites any deader than dead”  says Ion Staunton, Entomologist, text book author and inventor of the DIY TermiteTrap Control System

DIY Termite Control

You don’t need to be an expert. Here you will learn how to…

  • Use our Bait to kill termites (white ants, same thing)
  • Defend your home
  • Do it all without poisons
  • Research the details about termites and your control options


Ion StauntonIon Staunton is Australia’s most respected authority on DIY termite control and treatment. An entomologist and former TAFE teacher, he wrote the textbooks professional pest controllers use and was the first person in the world to create a DIY system for homeowners.

Killing Termites You've Found

If you’ve found live termites busy eating timber, you’ll need to use bait on the outside of the timber and they will begin carrying it back to kill their colony.

Here’s a step by step guide.


Step 1: Don’t disturb them!

You may want to pull things apart to see how far the damage goes.


This will have the effect of scaring  termite workers from the area – and you need them to be the carriers of the bait back to the nest.

Step 2: Make a small hole as shown here.


Step 3: Prepare a Termite Tuckerbag

Single termite tuckerbag

Our Termite Tuckerbags are filled with an insect growth inhibitor called Chlorfluazuron – its deadly to the life cycle of termites, but won’t harm you, your family or pets.  You peel open the adhesive on the top and add water. . .

Termite Trap Tuckerbag - Adding Water

Then you place the opening of the hole over the affected area. The Tuckerbags have an adhesive on them so they can be stuck directly to affected areas. Here it’s been added to a fencepost where termites were found. . .

Termite Tuckerbag on a Fence

Here it’s been stuck to the architrave of a window . . .

TTB W pouch on door architrave

Step 4: The termites harvest the bait, taking it back to the nest where it kills the whole colony

Larger nests will need more than one Tuckerbag.

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Buy Termite Tuckerbags Here

You’ve found termites in situations other than timber?

Click on a link that describes your situation.

I've found termites in the garden

Live termites found scurrying through mulch, leaf litter, in a load of firewood, etc, are not in a situation where they are able to be baited. Plenty of people have placed bait in mulch where they saw termites —but it doesn’t work.

Probably because the termites could not secure the bait from ants or, they didn’t have secure tunnel access.

The best procedure is to place multiple Traps in the area and wait for them to access the Traps in their usual way.

See the products

I've found termites in mounds

Just completely destroy the mound.

Termites that build mounds are subterranean but not included in the termites that do 99% of the $damage to homes.

This is because mounds are very visible, not tolerated around buildings and it is very easy to kill these colonies by physically destroying the mound. If you are on an acreage property, make it your rule not to allow any mounds to develop within 100 metres of a building or other structure. If you live in suburbia and there are no mounds in your backyard, take a glance over your fences to see if the neighbours have mounds. A 50 metre travel to your home would not be out of the question.

Termites In Mounds

Use a crowbar, a pick/mattock to break open the top/sides. The outer is often very hard. The less dense and crumbly interior is easier to break. The queen and the nursery are at the base of the mound and if you can’t physically get down there, use 30-50 litres of the dilute insecticidal mixture of permethrin, chlorpyrifos or a bifenthrin concentrate which can be purchased from a local hardware store. These insecticides may be known by various brand names but the active ingredients are on the front panel of the label. Although not highly toxic, they are poisons and you should read the label for dilution and safety directions.

Using a watering can/bucket, pour at least 30-50 litres of solution down into the mound. It’s more important to use high volume than a high concentration. You want it to percolate all the way down to the bottom to kill off the queen.

The colony will be re-built in weeks if you don’t.

I've found termites inside a hollow stump or a hollow tree

Coptos and Schedos often build their nest inside hollow trees and stumps.

So do a few other species, but as it is very easy to kill termite nests inside trees, it should be done no matter which species it is. The treatment will not kill the tree and, although insecticides are used, they are poured down the inside of the tree and remain there away from people, pets and wildlife. Follow label instructions on dilution and the use of protective procedures.

The insecticide inside the tree will last for about 10 years but setting Traps around the buildings is still recommended because termites don’t only set up nests in trees —and we know for sure, termites are in your neighborhood!

Chemical into a hollow tree

I'm in the north and have found giant termites

The Giant Northern Termite Mastotermes darwiniensis destroys houses, trees, vehicle tyres (yes, rubber tyres!) and many other materials, faster than any other termite. They don’t cause the most dollars worth of damage in Australia; that title goes to the Coptos, simply because Coptos are distributed over all the mainland (including where Mastos thrive) and consequently they run up their dollars in the high population cities/suburbs.

Identification is pretty easy: Mastos are 13-15mm long (that’s more than half an inch). Most other termites are less than 10mm. They don’t build big mounds; those magnetic (north-south) mounds up your way are grass eaters.

Mastos are easy to entice into monitors. Inspect monitors every month as they eat quickly.

If you find live Mastos, the IGR (chloruazuron) baits are ineffective. You will need to call in a professional who will probably use a fipronil product. If you are apprehensive of chemicals, do not worry unduly. Fipronil is the chemical in Frontline which is put directly onto the skin of dogs to kill and prevent fleas, so the usual dilution of 3 ml/litre of fipronil is even less toxic.

Mastotermes in colour

Found in fences, retaining walls, stacked timber or the firewood heap.

These items are made of solid wood and therefore the termites may well be Coptos or Schedos.

They could also be one of the not-so-serious termites.

We recommend getting them identified; they won’t eat much in the few days or hours it takes. Photos not only of the soldiers but also of the mud on the fence, wall or timber can be a useful aid to identification.

We can then advise the best treatment method. See our FREE ID Service

I've found termite nests in the branches of trees

These termites are either feeding on the decaying interior of the tree or they build tunnels down the outside which then radiate out in many directions (often on top of the ground) to grass and leaf litter. If you can easily reach the nest, physically destroy is as for mounds built on the ground,

otherwise you can keep breaking their tunnels and maybe spray insecticide around the base of the tree to eventually ‘starve’ them out. You could of course, get an arborist to climb up and cut the nest out. You could even drill into the trunk of the tree and inject bifenthrin by following the instructions in this section.

Just because you have mounds, it doesn’t mean the other, more significant Coptos and Schedos aren’t around. You should consider putting TermiteTrap monitors out to intercept them just in case they are.

Termite nest in tree N.walkeri

See the products here

I've found termites plastering a fence

These are probably Heterotermes which are more interested in the fungus growing on the surface of timber such as paling fences, sleepers in retaining walls, etc.

Termite Fence Plasterers

They come from the soil and they certainly have been known to find a way inside a house through weepholes. They seldom get into an outside monitor and the Colony Killer Termite Bait is of little use as they don’t build a substantial nest. Probably the easiest way to kill them is to brush off the plastered ‘mud’mixture and spray the area with a bifenthrin or permethrin solution made from a concentrate bought from your local hardware store. You should also apply a high volume along the line where the fence touches the ground and particularly around the posts. This is best done with a watering can so there is no droplet drift and the soil is saturated. The residue in the soil will last for about 5-10 years.

And, because you can’t be sure you’ve actually killed the nest by destroying thousands of soldiers and workers, you should inspect the area (and your house) every 3 months for the next year. Re-do if necessary.

You can use our Photo ID service to help you in identifying your termites.

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How Termite Tuckerbags work with Termite Traps.


This is a Termite Trap. There are more details on where to place them in the Defending Your Home section below. Also lots of easy to understand instructions in our How To Guide.

Open Termite Trap The underside of the Termite Trap . . . Under the Termite Trap Once termites move into the trap from the bottom and set up home . . . Termite Trap Eaten Underside You’ll see this has happened without needing to open the Trap because the trap ‘viewing port ‘ will be blocked out with the termites’ mud. . . Termite Trap Filled With Termite Mud This is your cue to add bait. You add 600ml of water to the Termite Tuckerbag . . . Termite Trap Tuckerbag - Adding Water . . and the Tuckerbag affixes directly to the top of the Trap Tuckerbag Affixed to the Top of a Tuckerbag And . . . this image is the inside of a box after a successful treatment before you clean out and reset the Trap. Termite Trap Viewed From The Top


You’ve set a system of traps and baits that’s deadly to termites, but won’t harm you, your family or pets. You’re using the same technique a professional pest controller will be using, but you are saving hundreds, maybe thousands of dollars in the process.

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In Summary

The termites that attack homes follow the same instincts they’ve used for millions of years.

These few instincts are predictable.

You can help them self destruct by following these recommendations — and be just as predictably successful.

We use this instinct against them

The worker termite’s main job is to find food, chew off a tummyfull and return to the nest to feed the nymphs and Royalty. Workers are like an endless conveyor belt. It’s what they do.

How we use this instinct

By feeding them a bait which is more palatable, they take it back, instead of chewed wood.

What happens

The bait contains a chemical that stops their moulting process and the viability of the queen’s eggs. The colony dies. It may take awhile but it is the most consistently reliable control method. Professionals use the same technique and the same bait — have done for 15+ years — because it works!

What you use

The carton of Colony Killer Bait is usually enough to kill a large colony or a couple of smaller colonies. What you don’t use will store for years.

Defending Your Home

Every TV news item you see on termites is the result of them crossing a barrier to get into the building. Placing TermiteTraps around your home gives termites something easy to find before they find a way inside.

The tyranny of termite instincts.

As a colony and as individuals, termites can only follow what has been programmed into them for millions of years. Each unfailingly follows their caste role; circumstances may differ but their instincts cannot change.

It makes it easier for us to defend our homes once we understand this tyranny of termite instincts.

We use these instincts against them

  1. Termite scouts are constantly searching for additional food.
  2. They always protect their environment to retain humidity and exclude ants using a ‘mud’ mixture.
  3. The worker termite’s main job is to find food, return to the nest and feed the nymphs and Royalty like an endless conveyor belt. It’s what they do.

How we use this instinct

  1. We give them plenty of Traps to find in places they go looking
  2. The base is open, allowing them access to discover the food source. We’ve left an open hole in the lid which they seal to control humidity loss. This tells you when they’ve arrived.
  3. By feeding them a bait which is more palatable, they take it back, instead of chewed wood.

What happens

When scouts find a Trap, they ‘report back to base’ and tunneling is commenced to the new food site. Once the Trap is sealed up around the base, they seal up the hole in the lid. This is your signal to add the bait!

What you use

There are 22 Traps in a carton to spread around about 3 metres apart. There is no digging. Place them on the garden soil, over the cracks between pavers, over expansion joints against the wall or in sheds, etc.  Check the signal hole in the lid as you walk past or at least every 3 months.

The Products, Costs, Comparisons

Doing your own termite control makes sense.

You’d like to save money — but not risk your home for the sake of a dollar?

And you’d like to do it without poisons? You are on the right website.

Its a once off investment of a few hundred dollars which saves you thousands over the 10 years TermiteTraps are guaranteed to last.


You only need two products (apart from spare parts/refills).

  • Colony Killer Termite Bait to kill termite nests
  • TermiteTraps to place around your buildings.

The Bait

  • Not poisonous to humans, pets, birds or wildlife.
  • Kills termite colonies because it is carried back by workers to their nest.
  • Registered and approved by the APVMA in Canberra for homeowner use.
  • Enough in a carton to kill a large colony or a couple of smaller colonies.
  • What you don’t use will keep for many years.
Click here to buy termite bait

Colony Killer Termite Bait.
$260 Postage in Australia included.

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The Traps

  • Already loaded with the timber the CSIRO recommends as most attractive.
  • Place them on your garden, on pavers, over expansion joints. No digging.
  • Space them about 3 metres apart.
  • There are 22 in a carton; putting them around is a 15 minute job.
  • The UV protected polypropylene case is guaranteed 10 years (will last longer)
  • Easy to check by glancing at the hole in the lid as you walk past
  • Easy to add bait to the Trap without disturbing the busy termite workers.
Click here to buy termite traps

Termite Traps.
$440 Postage in Australia included.

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The Kits.

The 1:1 Kit is for surburban homes, 2:1 Kit is for those who may live on acreage and have sheds to protect. The 3:1 Kit is for properties with many sheds, stables, stock loading ramps, etc.  There is 1 carton of Bait with each kit. You won’t need bait until you have live termites and you can always buy more when needed.

The cost / comparisons

So, how does the TermiteTrap DIY System compare to others?
“Cost” is more than just the money. What you buy must do the job; You want to be able to do it easily and You want to do it just once. Agree?

There are 2 types of DIY systems:

  • Monitors buried in the ground
  • Monitors placed above the ground

There are 2 types of DIY treatment:

  • Most offer bait that affects termite moulting
  • Others offer dust for you to use instead of bait. WARNING Dust, when it transfers, works faster, but be aware that a monitor buried in the ground is in a damp situations and most of the dust immediately sticks to the damp timber and mud. It is supposed to be picked up by passing termites for transfer back to the colony on the bodies or in the gut of the workers. If it is ‘stuck in the mud’ the transfer may not happen in sufficient quantity.

Termites have always known there is more food above the ground than under it. That’s why we put our TermiteTraps above ground where the scouts go looking. Trials proved monitors above the ground were found before any of those buried in the ground. Monitors are useless unless they are found!

So, how does the TermiteTrap DIY System compare to others?

We think ours is the best. Here’s why:

ptiy53-bullet-arrow-green   To work for you, a monitor must first be found. Our monitors (Traps) are placed above ground where more termite scouts are looking.

ptiy53-bullet-arrow-green The Bait we offer is exactly the same formulation as used by professionals for the last 15 years — because it is reliable.


The TermiteTrap is the easiest of all to check for termites. The hole in the lid allows humidity to be lost and the termite instinct is to close the hole as soon as they arrive. A glance as you pass is all you need; being in the top lid, it is visible from all angles. Look at them every three months or so. (Provide us with your email address and we’ll remind you).


Monitors that are buried flush with the garden and lawn surface can be covered and lost — meaning you won’t know about it.


There is no digging among roots or rocks; you can place the 22 in about 15 minutes.

In summary: they work, they last and the bait need only be purchased if you have another colony threatening.


They are guaranteed for 10 years but being UV protected, will last much longer and can be can be re-used many times.

Scouts have discovered this on-ground TermiteTrap , the tunnel is constructed, they have secured the Trap against ants and humidity loss and it is ready for baiting.

Water has been added to the bait pouch through the hole in the bottom and fixed over the hole in the Trap so workers can get inside to the bait.


Real comments by real people.

The TermiteTrap system is used by thousands of homeowners.

The big question everyone asks at first is:

Do The Traps Really Work?

Read these real comments by current customers.

ptiy53-bullet-arrow-green “Just wanted to say thanks for a great product and for running a great business. You’ve really got it nailed – good science, great product, great design and great product information that empowers people and lets them use, adapt and recycle instead of trying to force them into a cycle of re-ordering. Great people, great communication, great values. Your integrity and the intelligence and work you put into improving, refining and simplifying your offering really show.” – Jenni
ptiy53-bullet-arrow-green “Thanks for the advice. Your videos are great!!! Gave your website URL to a colleague today as I have been impressed with your website and service.” – Angus – NSW
ptiy53-bullet-arrow-green “Your product is great and your service, as always, is excellent. ” Tim & Cathy, SA
ptiy53-bullet-arrow-green “less than 10% of what I was quoted by the local pest bloke” – Len, Hornsby NSW
ptiy53-bullet-arrow-green “I did as you said and the termites have finally gone” . . . – Meg H. Balingup WA
ptiy53-bullet-arrow-green “Nice to know some products do what they claim. . .” – Adrian, Capalaba, QLD
ptiy53-bullet-arrow-green “. . . so simple and so low in cost which also works” – Derek K. ACT
ptiy53-bullet-arrow-green “G’day Ion, I had great success with your Termite Trap system. I live on the outskirts of Gympie renowned for its termite infestation. I initially installed only 3 tube type baits and within two weeks had activity. I commenced baiting and monitored regularly, I averaged one tub every 2 to 3 weeks for a total of nine months. During this time activity slowed and then speeded up, I can only surmise that colonies further away were connecting and finding the bait, eventually nothing left and has been clear for a couple of years. I did the same at my fathers place in Amamoor Qld. In this case they were wiped out within 7 months of continuous baiting. This system is spot on and wipes them out from within the colony. Its the best $600 I’ve ever spent and the peace of mind is priceless. I continue to monitor in case they migrate back but am sure will detect them if and when they come back. I recommend to many people, Before I commenced baiting I had to rebuild half my building. They ate it so fast before I realized I had a problem, now I sleep well knowing theyre gone and not eating my house from under me. To anyone looking for the right treatment you can’t go past this system as professional spraying is way more expensive and doesnt destroy the complete connected colonies, Thanks for your research and good luck with your business.” –  Greg Sims QLD


Things you wonder about may be covered right here.
How do white ants/termites find Termite Traps?
They send out scouts to find wood and, there is very attractive wood inside a Termite Trap. (The one recommended by CSIRO). TermiteTraps are designed to be placed up on the ground rather than be buried in it. For millions of years, there has always has been more wood above ground level than under it, so the acquired habit of scouts is to go out above ground level to find timber. Another survival habit: termites do not rely on just one food source. They are constantly seeking supplementary food sources. Too many times there have been flash floods and bushfires or dinosaurs/mammoths have moved their main meal. To survive, multiple feeding sites became a necessity. And, so it continues… The short answer: the more TermiteTraps you have placed around your home, above the ground where termite scouts are looking, the sooner and more likely you are to intercept scouts.
Do monitors attract termites to my house?
No. Termite scouts find monitors you have placed adjacent to your home simply because they were already there looking about. It could be argued that if they hadn’t found the Trap, they may have kept looking further and found a way inside.
My house is only three years old. It must have been built to meet Codes including termite preventive measures, and anyway, isn’t there a seven-year builder’s warranty to cover me?
Yes. And yes. Building codes, in essence, aim to ensure termites cannot enter unseen into a structure. Codes do not expect to prevent termites getting into a building, the aim is to make termite attack routes visible on the way in. Think of those old ant caps that were/are placed on piers and stumps. Termites cannot get through the metal; they have to build out around and over them where their tunnel can be seen — as long as someone goes looking. Requiring an annual inspection is almost the first paragraph of most Codes). Builders guarantees are full of loop holes. The pest control company only gives the builder a piece of paper to say they applied or installed chemical or other barriers to the appropriate Code. If you haven’t kept up the annual termite inspection (by the nominated pest company) your warrantee is void and there’s nowhere to go.
If termites are already in my house can I use Termite Traps to entice them out?
Not a good idea. It takes time for scouts to find a TermiteTrap outside and then more time for the ‘construction team’ to build a tunnel to it. Then even more time to bait them. During all that time, they are still hollowing out the timbers in your house. If you can find termites busy eating timbers such as skirting boards, window or door frames, it is best to directly bait them right away. Here’s the link to text and illustrations explaining the process.
I’ve bought a load of firewood for the winter and found termites in it. What do I do?
They will soon dry out and die because they’ve been removed from their nest. It may take a week or two depending on rain and temperature (and how busy the ants are at your place). Unless there’s a queen and a constant source of moisture, they will die.
What are the dimensions of a TermiteTrap?
They are just less than the size of a house brick: 190mm x 90mm x 80mm high.
Is it legal for homeowners to buy and use your bait?
The Colony Killer Termite Bait is approved by the APVMA in Canberra (the Australian Pesticides and Veterinary Medicines Authority) for use by homeowners. APVMA In Canberra
I’ve read about ‘serious’ and ‘nuisance’ termite species. How can I tell the difference?
I’m very wary of generalising, but here is an attempt to simplify, hoping you’ll recognise that in nature there are exceptions to human ‘rules’. There are 300+ termite species in Australia. Only about 10 or so species, the so-called ‘serious’ ones, contribute significantly to Australia’s annual $billion+ damage bill. These species come from just three genera (plural of genus): Coptotermes, Schedorhinotermes and Mastotermes, (Coptos, Schedos and Mastos.) The Mastos are found mainly north of the Tropic of Capricorn (between Rockhampton and Exmouth) and they are big — 13-16mm long. No other solid-wood eating termite is this big. The geography and size quickly rules them in or out as a threat to your home. The Coptos and Schedos are found all over the continent and they specialise in eating solid wood such as in our structures. Which means they definitely are a threat. The rest of the 300+ are ‘nuisances’ because they are either leaf-litter, grass, or decaying wood eaters and they usually build mounds. No one wants to live with a termite mound nearby so even the couple of species of the pointy-headed Nasutes (Nasutitermes) that will eat solid timber are easily destroyed by breaking open their mound. We have a free ID Service and there is also a section in this website that gives you some visual clues on the differences.
How do termites get into the Trap?
The bottom is mostly open apart from a ledge to keep the timber slats from falling through. There are also a couple of small holes at the bottom in the back wall. Traps can be placed flat on a concrete path against a wall over the expansion joint. These joints often open up over time (weeds growing there are a good indicator) allowing termite scouts up to snoop about and find their way through those back holes to the timber inside the Trap.
My house was built more than twenty years ago and there has been no termite attack, why would I bother putting monitors around?
The CSIRO produced a Termite Risk Map showing almost all areas of the mainland states of Australia are of Moderate to High Risk. The tiny sliver of land along the Great Ocean Road in south western Victoria is about the only Low Risk area. Which means there are serious termites near you. Annual flights of termites occur in late spring, early summer. Most are unsuccessful in establishing a nest — but some do. Ever seen flying termites at dusk at your place? Twenty years without an attack can be looked at two ways: you’ve been lucky, or, on the law of averages your luck is due to run out. Your decision rests on weighing up the cost of say $440 for 22 Traps that will last for at least 10 years; put them around as ‘sentries’ for an early warning system. That is not a lot of outlay to maybe save you $thousands in repairs. Your choice.
I understand termites can do $50,000 plus in damage to a house in a short time. Doing something about the termite threat is obviously sensible, however, aren’t chemical barriers better value, even though more costly than termite monitors?
Barriers installed during construction are one thing; barriers re-applied are different. You can’t jack up a building and start again. Holes drilled in slabs and tiled areas are injected to make interconnecting ‘puddles’ of insecticide underneath. If there is a soil crack below the slab, thousands of litres of pesticide could just disappear without puddling. If there has been some subsidence and there is a space under the slab, the puddles may well join up but the termites may be tunnelling upside down on the undersurface of the slab where the pesticide doesn’t reach them. Sure, these are less likely examples, but here is another point to ponder: every year about 130,000 -150,000 houses in Australia are attacked by termites. Every time this happens, (and you see it all too often on TV news programs) termites have come up from the ground, crossed or bridged over barriers and done the damage. Every time. A barrier treatment can cost a couple of thousand dollars and lasts about 10 years before you need to do it again; a carton of Traps costs $440 and are guaranteed to last at least 10 years and, if you get a strike and successfully bait the termites, the Traps can be reused by adding more new timber. You can do the maths.
What is a nest?
If there’s a queen, that’s a nest. The most recognisable nests are mounds rising up out of the ground. Serious termites usually nest in hollow trees or invisibly below soil level. There are often mud masses found under floors or between studs inside walls. Most often these masses are re-hydration areas where termites can recover from the drying out that occurs if they are too long away from moisture. Physically removing, destroying or spraying such masses will kill thousands of termites but, if the nest is underground some distance away, the access to that mass is sealed off by workers still in the safe zone below and away from the mayhem you’ve caused. The nest survives to come back from another direction. A mature queen can be laying a thousand or more eggs every day. It doesn’t take long for the numbers to rebuild. Read more about killing nests in trees, stumps and mounds.
We have lots of ants which we know are the enemy of termites. Do we still have a termite problem?
Yes. Termites are masters at excluding ants from their nests, their tunnels and the wood they are eating. They’ve been doing it since ants evolved. (Termites were here before ants).
Won’t dogs or kids move the Traps?
If you place the Termite Traps around the house with the dog locked in the garage or the car where it can’t see you put the Traps down, there is no reason for the dog to believe they are a movable plaything. When you let the pooch loose, some investigatory sniffing may occur but as it doesn’t play back, the Trap will probably be ignored. In all our trials and after all the cartons we’ve sent out, only one dog story has come back to us. (The Trap was placed inside the dog pen). As for kids? They are supposed to leave things alone if they are told, so tell them. After all, you have your home investment to protect.
Is there a guarantee?
Yes (and no). Yes. If when you receive the product, you change your mind or have second thoughts that it is not what you expected, you can return to us for a full refund — no arguments from us. Just phone to say it’s coming back and to arrange the repayment details. No. we don’t guarantee results that we cannot control such as where you placed them and how you baited them or, whether you misinterpreted instructions. And it is very difficult to prove in court (many have tried) whether termites were already inside a structure before monitors were put in place.

The Termite Treatment Blog

Articles about termites, their control and treatment

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FREE DIY termite control How To Guide

Download your Free Home Termite Control How To Guide

In this 16 pg illustrated guide you’ll learn:

  • How to tell the difference between termites that are just a nuisance and those that are a threat.
  • Assessing your Termite Risk depending on where you live and your house construction style
  • How to do a professional termite extermination job yourself, at a cost a few hundred dollars – the same job a technician will charge thousands for.
  • Killing termites inside timbers in your house, sheds, trees and mounds – Safely!
  • How to protect your home with an ‘early warning system’, stopping termites in their tracks before they get to your house.

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