This is Australia’s #1 site for DIY termite treatment.
(White ants? . . same thing.)
Here you’ll find everything you’ll need to do a proper job.
Bait to kill termites | Traps to defend your home | Advice on how to do it….
And… you’ll save money!
Let’s streamline your visit and quickly get to practical information for your situation.
We understand you’ve come to this site because either . . . .
Then read on below to find out:
How to kill them in various situations
Then, click here to find out:
How to spend about 10 minutes doing a
simple job that will last for decades.
If you’ve found eaten out timber in a structure but there are no live termites to be found, click here for advice. Don’t panic. Nothing will get worse in the few minutes it will take you to work out if they are the serious termites (3 types) or nuisances (300+ types). Either way, we will quickly get you to the information you need.
First, you’ll need to be sure they are termites.
This is what termites look like: a head and body (2 parts not 3 parts with a waist, and with straight beads for antennae, not with elbows in the antennae) If you’ve found winged ones and they have equal sized wings, they are termites. If the front wings are bigger, they are not.
Here is a chart which should help you identify and name the termites at your place.
Treating Coptos and Schedos
We mentioned three serious types of termites out of 300 plus. The two which do 99% of the damage to Australian homes are the Coptos and the Schedos which are found all over. This next section explains how you can treat them in your home and other structures. The other of the three types? They are the Mastos which are top-end pests usually found only north of the Tropic of Capricorn. Treatment for Mastos is different and is explained on this link
The principles of baiting termites
Termite workers take chewed wood back to feed those in their nest. It is what they do. Given the choice, they prefer the IGR-laced bait to wood because it is easier to harvest.
If you don’t see any living termites working away, undisturbed, inside timber or in a monitor (Trap), there is no point beginning the baiting process. If you find damaged timber but no living termites, there are no workers to take the bait back ‘home’ and they may never find or come looking for bait just because you placed it there awaiting their discovery.
When fed to the royals and all the nymphs, the Insect Growth Regulator in the bait inhibits the production of the outer shell so they cannot complete their regular moults — and they die.
IGR baiting is slow but reliable. It is the most dependable way to kill termites nests that can’t be found. Workers know their way “home” and this instinct or habit is our way to assist them in self-destruction. Multiple feeds are usually necessary. If the feeding goes on for weeks, often months, then slows down and finally stops, it is almost certainly because the colony has been killed.
Once you get them feeding, it almost never fails unless you dig and sever their connecting tunnels just below ground level or you let them run out of bait before the colony dies.
The alternative of ripping open the timber so you can spray might kill a few thousand workers and soldiers, but the dead are replaced in about a week of egg production! The nest survives and they then attack from a new direction.
Wait a minute or so. If termites are inside, soldiers usually come to the opening to guard it until workers can repair it. If there is no life, leave it open and come back in an hour, or next morning. If the hole is repaired, you know they are still active inside and ready for baiting. Using a sheet of aluminium cooking foil and duct or gaffer tape, make a pouch or pocket big enough to hold the contents of a tub of the bait to place over the hole (re-open and enlarge the hole to about 10mm just before you put the pouch in place). The pouch must be sealed all around so there is no way ants can get in or humidity can get out.
The bait in the pouch is moist and easier for termites to harvest than hard timber so they will come out of the timber and begin taking it in preference. Check every 7-10 days and replenish as necessary until feeding stops.
It is a pain to keep feeding them sometimes for many months but baiting until they finally stop eating is the surest method. Dusts and foams used by some professionals may cause empty galleries within a week or two, but you can never be absolutely certain that the dusting or foaming did not make the gallery untenable for the shy and easily disturbed Schedos. Schedos require 3-4 times as much bait to kill the colony and they often replace the bait they take with masses of mud. Coptos on the other hand can tolerate a little more disturbance and baiting them is usually completed within a couple of months, depending on the season.
Here’s how you make a pouch:
Termites will need multiple feeds to get enough bait back to the nest to kill off the whole colony. Check the bait level every 10-14 days by lifting the tape or slicing open the foil. Add bait when necessary and re-close. When there is no more termite activity, wait another week or two just to be sure, before you declare… Victory!
WARNING: Just because you won this battle, the war is not over. Termites swarm every year and some colonies may get started nearby. It takes 3-5 years for a colony to get up to the serious threat level. If you’ve killed a colony – congratulations. Well done! But, there maybe other developing colonies trying to find a way inside if they possibly can. Spreading Termite Traps around your buildings will give them something easier to find than your house. And, when they discover one of the Traps, it is so much easier to Bait a Trap outside than it is to do the alfoil thing inside. This is the link to setting Traps.
If you’ve found termites in garden mulch, under pots, in timber retaining walls and they can’t be fed a bait because they are not aggregated in their hundreds or thousands, you will need to place Termite traps around where their scouts are looking for new food sources.
Whether you find live termites eating structures or just loose in the mulch, the first place to check out are trees that might be hollow and also look around for mounds. How you treat trees and/or mounds is explained below.
These images are of some of the ’nuisance’ group of termites.
We have an ID service which works very well. Click here to see how
If you’ve found the pointy headed Nasute inside a structure, they have come from a mound either standing in the ground or from up in a tree. Destroy the mound and you’ve killed the problem. The Micros (with jaws) also come from mounds, so look about. The Heteros (not mound builders) are often found plastering the fence but they can and do come inside.
Most mound building termites eat dead grass or leaf litter, not seasoned timber. Even those mound builders that do eat solid timber are best killed off just by destroying their mounds. There’s no point in baiting termites from a mound nest — just physically destroy it. Have a look around for mounds.
Mound builders are not major pests like the termites that do 99% of the $damage to homes. This is because mounds are very visible and not tolerated around buildings. If you are on an acreage property, make it your rule not to allow any mounds to develop within 200 metres of a building or other structure. If you live in suburbia and there are no mounds in your backyard, look over your fences to see if the neighbours have mounds. A 50 metre termite travel to your home is not out of the question.
Use a crowbar, a pick or mattock to break it open.
The outer layer is often very hard. The less dense and crumbly interior is easier to break. The queen and the nursery are at the base of the mound and if you can’t physically get down to the base of the nest, use 20-30 litres of the dilute insecticidal mixture of a chlorpyrifos or a bifenthrin concentrate which can be purchased from a local hardware store. They may be known by various brand names but the active ingredients are on the front panel of the label. Although not highly toxic, they are poisons and you should read the label for dilution and safety directions.
Use a watering can or bucket to pour at least 20-30 litres of solution down into the mound. It’s important to use a high volume rather than using less of a stronger solution. You need volume to percolate all the way down to the bottom to kill off the queen. The colony will be re-built in weeks if you don’t.
Those big brown nests up in the branches of trees?
These termites are either feeding on the decaying interior of the tree or they build tunnels down the outside which then radiate out in many directions (often on top of the ground) to grass and leaf litter. If you can reach the nest, physically destroy it, otherwise you can keep breaking their tunnels and maybe spray bifenthrin around the base of the tree to eventually ‘starve’ them out. If in your view, any termite is a bad termite, you could get an arborist to climb up and cut the nest out. You could even drill into the trunk of the tree (if it is hollow) and inject bifenthrin by following the instructions in the next section:
Treating Termite nests in trees and stumps
The main termites, Coptos and Schedos build their nests either below soil level OR in a hollow tree or stump. They should be checked out as your first job. A nest in a tree/stump can be killed in minutes for around $50 or less. Threat is reduced immediately.
Large eucalypts, peppercorns, mature fruit trees or any other tree you suspect is hollow, should be checked. Use a 15-20mm auger bit long enough to drill into the centre of the trunk at about shoulder height. Drill at a slight downward angle and when you feel less resistance it will be because you have reached the pipe. As you pull the bit out, look to see if any termites are in the fluting. If not, you could slip a long thin grass leaf into the drill hole, leave it there for a minute and withdraw it slowly. Termites soldiers may be found holding on, ‘attacking’ it. If still no live termites are found, come back in half an hour or next morning; if there is termite life inside, they will have repaired the opening using their ‘mud’ mixture. You don’t need to see live termites; it’s just more satisfying to know you have actually killed a colony.
Re-open the drill hole if it has been repaired.
Using a funnel, plastic tube and watering can/bucket, pour at least 20-30 litres of a chlorpyrifos, bifenthrin or permethrin solution down into the tree. These insecticidal concentrations can be purchased from a local hardware store. They may be known by various brand names but the active ingredients are on the front panel of the label. They are poisons and you should read the label for dilution and safety directions.
For large stumps, drive a crowbar down into the centre of the top. If it goes in deeply without much effort, check for live termites down in the hole you’ve made. If the stump is fragile you should make the effort to remove it. If it is too hard, pour 20-30 litres of the insecticidal solution into it as above. Volume is much more important than strength; you need to soak the nest — right to the bottom.
Even though you’ve killed a colony that was definitely interested in your home, it doesn’t mean there aren’t others out there. It takes 3-5 years after the colonising fight for a nest to become significant and during that time, if you have TermiBrick Traps out in the soil surrounding your structures, there is a big chance the Traps will intercept them so you can bait and kill them. You can use our Photo ID service to help you in identifying your termites:
If you’ve drastically disturbed termites discovered inside timber framing or a crate, carton, toolbox, etc, it is almost impossible to put things back as they were and expect the termites to return to continue eating. They will normally block off their access to the damaged area at a point back closer to their nest. It is much easier for them to defend a narrow “pass.” If you found, sprayed and killed them all before finding out you shouldn’t have done that, their access to the sprayed area will be sealed on the nest side and you won’t be able to feed them a bait.
Similarly, if damaged timber has been stripped out, termites will block off their access passage to the ‘destruction site’ from the side nearest the nest. Thousands of termites will be sacrificed because they couldn’t get back to safety in time, but the colony will be safe from ants and lost humidity. Anyway, the queen is laying over a thousand eggs a day. Does that make your effort seem inadequate?
Another scenario is: if you are renovating or repairing and you find empty termite damaged timber, it may have been old termite action that was treated before you owned the house. Maybe termite access to that part of the house was cut off by landscaping or building extensions and they couldn’t get back.
Empty damaged timbers mean you can’t use bait. No termites? No one to transfer bait back to the colony. So what do you do?
Begin a full inspection of the rest of the structure.
Maybe you’ll find activity in an adjoining room which will allow you to start feeding them there. If you can’t find any other damage containing live termites to feed, you will develop that sinking feeling knowing they’ll probably be back — but where and when?
The best way to face that situation is not to wait for renewed attack inside the structure, but to take the initiative and place monitors outside around the house, to intercept them and kill the colony before they find a new access to resume attack on the inside. Begin TermiteTrapping click here . Most importantly, inspect the whole house every three months for the next year at least — because they know where you live and you’ll want to find any new action before big damage occurs. Want full instructions on inspecting your home? Click here.
How to spend about 10 minutes doing a simple job that will last for decades.
Your home is always at risk from colonies that haven’t yet showed themselves. If termites are anywhere “out there” you need to intercept their scouts so you can kill them before they find a way inside. The best way to do this is to give them plenty of opportunities; give them something easy to find — like 22 TermiteTraps.
The more Traps you have around, the sooner and more likely you are to intercept the scouts looking for a new food source. Termites are never satisfied with one source; they are always seeking other sources as a survival instinct. If they find a single Trap and you can begin baiting them, it will be the end of that colony.
There are three simple steps
Step 1 – Placing the traps
Termites live in nests underground, often quite a distance from where you may have found them.
Termite ‘scouts’ leave the nest to forage for food.
By placing traps around your house and garden you provide termites with an easy-to-find food source – once they have found the trap, they move in, seal it up, make it their own.
Here are some areas you would place the traps.
Around the outside of the house . . .
. . . near expansion joints in concrete
. . . near previously damaged timber
and near wood and wood piles in the garden.
The trap is filled with pieces of Tasmanian Oak sourced from sustainable forests. Its open to allow the termites easy access to set up home.
Step 2 – Inspecting the traps
The patented design of the Termi-Brick allows you to quickly and easily see which traps have attracted termites – without disturbing them.
Once inside the trap, their instincts drive them to block up the hole with mud.
Once you find traps with this mud “we’ve arrived” signal, this is your cue to start the baiting process.
Step 3 – Adding bait
Termite Trap Colony Killer Bait contains an insect growth inhibitor called chlorfluazuron.
It is deadly to the life cycle of the termites – but completely safe to you, your family, pets and wildlife.
By using this bait you can kill off whole termite colonies – not just termites that you may have found in and around your house.
Here’s how you do it.
- A carton of bait includes 10 conveniently sized individual containers. Remove the lid and add 330ml of water.
- Once the water’s soaked in (no need to stir) lightly replace the lid and remove this disc from the bottom.
- Place double sided tape on the base of the tub . . .
- Press a little of the bait down into the Trap to get them started . . .
- . . and lightly close the lid… one click on one side.
The termites take the bait back to the colony where it not only kills them – but the whole nest! It will take multiple feeds but it is the most certain way to kill termite colonies.
You are now an expert in the use of the simple but deadly TermiteTrap.
Frequently Asked Questions.
If you place the Termi-Bricks around the house with the dog locked in the garage or the car where he/she can’t see you put them down, there is no reason for the dog to believe they are a movable plaything. When you let the pooch loose, some investigatory sniffing will occur but as it doesn’t play back, it will be ignored. In all our trials and in all the ones we’ve sent out, not one dog story has come back to us.
As for kids? They are supposed to leave things alone if they are told, so tell them. After all, you have your home investment to protect.
The Colony Killer Termite Bait is approved by the APVMA in Canberra (the Australian Pesticides and Veterinary Medicines Authority) for use by homeowners.
Which product option do you need?
We have 3 purchase options available.
The TermiteTrap system is used by thousands of homeowners.
The big question everyone asks at first is:
Do The Traps Really Work?
Read these success stories from real people all over Australia.
“less than 10% of what I was quoted by the local pest bloke” Len, Hornsby NSW
“”Nice to know some products do what they claim. . . “Adrian, Capalaba, QLD
“Good on you… and thanks. . . ” Maurie D. Adelaide. SA
“I did as you said and the termites have finally gone. . . ” Meg H. Balingup WA
“so simple and so low in cost which also works. . . ” Derek K. ACT
“We’ve killed 3 different nests. . . ” David S. St George, QLD
“Thanks for the advice. Your videos are great!!! Gave your website URL to a colleague today as I have been impressed with your website and service.” Regards Angus
How does this system compare to other systems available?
There are a number of termite monitor and bait systems in Australia. We think ours is the best. View our comparison below to learn why.
(These cannot be compared to the above Types according to Ease of Installation, Inspection or Adding treatment because these tasks are performed by the service company and you pay for the service.)
In Ground Containers
Unobtrusive, can be installed even in concrete paths and driveways around the buildings
Those flush with the garden and lawn surface can be covered and lost. As Service personnel change and ‘maps’ are lost, this happens quite often. Despite the best intentions of the Providers or Manufacturers of such systems, too many Principals and technicians of the service companies can be slack and don’t adhere to the proposed and agreed periods between inspections. The annual Inspection fee is around $800- $1000 a year and there is additional charges for the multiple visits to add bait if termite attack occurs. This may be known and agreed upon at the outset but after a year or two, many homeowners feel the charge is excessive and stop paying and the monitors (if not retrieved by the Company) are left in the ground unmonitored because the homeowner is unable or reluctant to use tools to open them. This is a loss of invested effort and about $4000+ for a couple of years of monitoring.
By comparison, the TermiteTraps cost $440 for 22 monitors and can last for decades, be easily monitored and shifted if necessary but you do have to look at them every three months or so. (Provide us with your email address and we’ll remind you)
About the Inventor
Ion Staunton is an entomologist with over 40 years experience in the pest control industry. He’s a past trainer of Australian pest control technicians and the author of the text books that they use. He was the first in the world to design a DIY system for homeowners. His company Termite Trap Pty Ltd has been growing and innovating to meet the specific needs of DIY homeowners for over 10 years.
We’re so confident that you will be delighted by the quality of our products and the helpful advice from our team that we offer a full no-nonsense, no-questions-asked guarantee.
If, when your TermiteTraps arrive by AusPost e-Parcel Service, you decide they are not what you expected or you don’t think they are suitable for your needs, you can return them for a full refund.
- It works on the subterranean termites (white ants — same thing) the ones that cause 99% of the damage bill to Australian homes. You can see from the testimonials that we’ve had happy customers over the years. The pest professionals have been using this system of monitors and baiting since it was first devised back at the millennium. They still use it — because it works. They haven’t caught up to us yet; they are still burying their monitors flush with the ground. And they charge a lot more money.
- It doesn’t work on the mound builders and other nuisance termites that mainly eat leaf litter, dead grass and very decay affected
wood. We tell you how to sort out these nuisances from the serious termites in our Termite Identification Page. We even have an email-in Photo ID Service. All this is so you don’t spend time, effort and money on termites of little consequence.
How to Order
There are 3 easy ways to order.
- Order Online. By following the Buy Now links on this page, you’ll be taken to our secure shopping cart where you can purchase the product or kit of your choice.
- Order by Phone. Call us on 1800 20 30 20 to ask final questions before you place your order with our friendly team.
- Order by mail or fax. If you prefer, you can download our order form located here and mail or fax your order through to us.
Want to do some more research?
We have articles here about DIY termite treatment & termite control, pictures of termites and information about defending your home against termites. Here is a ‘map’ to help you find your way around.
Termite Control – This page discusses control of termites based on geography and types of construction.
Termite Treatment – Detailed information about treating termites in different situations including termites in wood, mounds, fence plasterers & nests in trees
Termite Pictures – This page gives you images of the different types of termites, those which are serious and those which are nuisances.
Termite Inspections – How to do your own termite inspection as well, (or better) than many professionals.
Termite Identification Service -a free service to identify, if we can, the type of pest that you are encountering. Send us a photo by email
and some details and we’ll do our best to give you precise advice.
The termite treatment blog – A collection of articles about termites, their control & treatment in Australia