Australia’s #1 site for DIY termite treatment and control.To kill termite colonies, to defend your home, to do your research — click on one of these six links:
'How-to-advice' from the best. Save money and do a proper job, safely
“You can do the job yourself, properly, safely and save money.
Paying more doesn’t kill termites any deader than dead” says Ion Staunton, Entomologist, text book author and inventor of the DIY TermiteTrap Control System
DIY Termite Control
You don’t need to be an expert. Here you will learn how to…
- Use our Bait to kill termites (white ants, same thing)
- Defend your home
- Do it all without poisons
- Research the details about termites and your control options
Ion Staunton is Australia’s most respected authority on DIY termite control and treatment. An entomologist and former TAFE teacher, he wrote the textbooks professional pest controllers use and was the first person in the world to create a DIY system for homeowners.
Killing Termites You've Found
If you’ve found live termites busy eating timber, you’ll need to use bait on the outside of the timber and they will begin carrying it back to kill their colony.
Here’s a step by step guide.
Step 1: Don’t disturb them!
You may want to pull things apart to see how far the damage goes.
This will have the effect of scaring termite workers from the area – and you need them to be the carriers of the bait back to the nest.
Step 2: Make a small hole as shown here.
Step 3: Prepare a Termite Tuckerbag
Our Termite Tuckerbags are filled with an insect growth inhibitor called Chlorfluazuron – its deadly to the life cycle of termites, but won’t harm you, your family or pets. You peel open the adhesive on the top and add water. . .
Then you place the opening of the hole over the affected area. The Tuckerbags have an adhesive on them so they can be stuck directly to affected areas. Here it’s been added to a fencepost where termites were found. . .
Here it’s been stuck to the architrave of a window . . .
Step 4: The termites harvest the bait, taking it back to the nest where it kills the whole colony
Larger nests will need more than one Tuckerbag.
You’ve found termites in situations other than timber?
Click on a link that describes your situation.
I've found termites in the garden
Live termites found scurrying through mulch, leaf litter, in a load of firewood, etc, are not in a situation where they are able to be baited. Plenty of people have placed bait in mulch where they saw termites —but it doesn’t work.
Probably because the termites could not secure the bait from ants or, they didn’t have secure tunnel access.
The best procedure is to place multiple Traps in the area and wait for them to access the Traps in their usual way.
I've found termites in mounds
Just completely destroy the mound.
Termites that build mounds are subterranean but not included in the termites that do 99% of the $damage to homes.
This is because mounds are very visible, not tolerated around buildings and it is very easy to kill these colonies by physically destroying the mound. If you are on an acreage property, make it your rule not to allow any mounds to develop within 100 metres of a building or other structure. If you live in suburbia and there are no mounds in your backyard, take a glance over your fences to see if the neighbours have mounds. A 50 metre travel to your home would not be out of the question.
Use a crowbar, a pick/mattock to break open the top/sides. The outer is often very hard. The less dense and crumbly interior is easier to break. The queen and the nursery are at the base of the mound and if you can’t physically get down there, use 30-50 litres of the dilute insecticidal mixture of permethrin, chlorpyrifos or a bifenthrin concentrate which can be purchased from a local hardware store. These insecticides may be known by various brand names but the active ingredients are on the front panel of the label. Although not highly toxic, they are poisons and you should read the label for dilution and safety directions.
Using a watering can/bucket, pour at least 30-50 litres of solution down into the mound. It’s more important to use high volume than a high concentration. You want it to percolate all the way down to the bottom to kill off the queen.
The colony will be re-built in weeks if you don’t.
I've found termites inside a hollow stump or a hollow tree
Coptos and Schedos often build their nest inside hollow trees and stumps.
So do a few other species, but as it is very easy to kill termite nests inside trees, it should be done no matter which species it is. The treatment will not kill the tree and, although insecticides are used, they are poured down the inside of the tree and remain there away from people, pets and wildlife. Follow label instructions on dilution and the use of protective procedures.
The insecticide inside the tree will last for about 10 years but setting Traps around the buildings is still recommended because termites don’t only set up nests in trees —and we know for sure, termites are in your neighborhood!
I'm in the north and have found giant termites
The Giant Northern Termite Mastotermes darwiniensis destroys houses, trees, vehicle tyres (yes, rubber tyres!) and many other materials, faster than any other termite. They don’t cause the most dollars worth of damage in Australia; that title goes to the Coptos, simply because Coptos are distributed over all the mainland (including where Mastos thrive) and consequently they run up their dollars in the high population cities/suburbs.
Identification is pretty easy: Mastos are 13-15mm long (that’s more than half an inch). Most other termites are less than 10mm. They don’t build big mounds; those magnetic (north-south) mounds up your way are grass eaters.
Mastos are easy to entice into monitors. Inspect monitors every month as they eat quickly.
If you find live Mastos, the IGR (chloruazuron) baits are ineffective. You will need to call in a professional who will probably use a fipronil product. If you are apprehensive of chemicals, do not worry unduly. Fipronil is the chemical in Frontline which is put directly onto the skin of dogs to kill and prevent fleas, so the usual dilution of 3 ml/litre of fipronil is even less toxic.
Found in fences, retaining walls, stacked timber or the firewood heap.
These items are made of solid wood and therefore the termites may well be Coptos or Schedos.
They could also be one of the not-so-serious termites.
We recommend getting them identified; they won’t eat much in the few days or hours it takes. Photos not only of the soldiers but also of the mud on the fence, wall or timber can be a useful aid to identification.
We can then advise the best treatment method. See our FREE ID Service
I've found termite nests in the branches of trees
These termites are either feeding on the decaying interior of the tree or they build tunnels down the outside which then radiate out in many directions (often on top of the ground) to grass and leaf litter. If you can easily reach the nest, physically destroy is as for mounds built on the ground,
otherwise you can keep breaking their tunnels and maybe spray insecticide around the base of the tree to eventually ‘starve’ them out. You could of course, get an arborist to climb up and cut the nest out. You could even drill into the trunk of the tree and inject bifenthrin by following the instructions in this section.
Just because you have mounds, it doesn’t mean the other, more significant Coptos and Schedos aren’t around. You should consider putting TermiteTrap monitors out to intercept them just in case they are.
I've found termites plastering a fence
These are probably Heterotermes which are more interested in the fungus growing on the surface of timber such as paling fences, sleepers in retaining walls, etc.
They come from the soil and they certainly have been known to find a way inside a house through weepholes. They seldom get into an outside monitor and the Colony Killer Termite Bait is of little use as they don’t build a substantial nest. Probably the easiest way to kill them is to brush off the plastered ‘mud’mixture and spray the area with a bifenthrin or permethrin solution made from a concentrate bought from your local hardware store. You should also apply a high volume along the line where the fence touches the ground and particularly around the posts. This is best done with a watering can so there is no droplet drift and the soil is saturated. The residue in the soil will last for about 5-10 years.
And, because you can’t be sure you’ve actually killed the nest by destroying thousands of soldiers and workers, you should inspect the area (and your house) every 3 months for the next year. Re-do if necessary.
You can use our Photo ID service to help you in identifying your termites.
How Termite Tuckerbags work with Termite Traps.
The underside of the Termite Trap . . . Once termites move into the trap from the bottom and set up home . . . You’ll see this has happened without needing to open the Trap because the trap ‘viewing port ‘ will be blocked out with the termites’ mud. . . This is your cue to add bait. You add 600ml of water to the Termite Tuckerbag . . . . . and the Tuckerbag affixes directly to the top of the Trap And . . . this image is the inside of a box after a successful treatment before you clean out and reset the Trap.
You’ve set a system of traps and baits that’s deadly to termites, but won’t harm you, your family or pets. You’re using the same technique a professional pest controller will be using, but you are saving hundreds, maybe thousands of dollars in the process.
The termites that attack homes follow the same instincts they’ve used for millions of years.
These few instincts are predictable.
You can help them self destruct by following these recommendations — and be just as predictably successful.
We use this instinct against them
The worker termite’s main job is to find food, chew off a tummyfull and return to the nest to feed the nymphs and Royalty. Workers are like an endless conveyor belt. It’s what they do.
How we use this instinct
By feeding them a bait which is more palatable, they take it back, instead of chewed wood.
The bait contains a chemical that stops their moulting process and the viability of the queen’s eggs. The colony dies. It may take awhile but it is the most consistently reliable control method. Professionals use the same technique and the same bait — have done for 15+ years — because it works!
Defending Your Home
Every TV news item you see on termites is the result of them crossing a barrier to get into the building. Placing TermiteTraps around your home gives termites something easy to find before they find a way inside.
The tyranny of termite instincts.
As a colony and as individuals, termites can only follow what has been programmed into them for millions of years. Each unfailingly follows their caste role; circumstances may differ but their instincts cannot change.
It makes it easier for us to defend our homes once we understand this tyranny of termite instincts.
We use these instincts against them
- Termite scouts are constantly searching for additional food.
- They always protect their environment to retain humidity and exclude ants using a ‘mud’ mixture.
- The worker termite’s main job is to find food, return to the nest and feed the nymphs and Royalty like an endless conveyor belt. It’s what they do.
How we use this instinct
- We give them plenty of Traps to find in places they go looking
- The base is open, allowing them access to discover the food source. We’ve left an open hole in the lid which they seal to control humidity loss. This tells you when they’ve arrived.
- By feeding them a bait which is more palatable, they take it back, instead of chewed wood.
When scouts find a Trap, they ‘report back to base’ and tunneling is commenced to the new food site. Once the Trap is sealed up around the base, they seal up the hole in the lid. This is your signal to add the bait!
What you use
There are 22 Traps in a carton to spread around about 3 metres apart. There is no digging. Place them on the garden soil, over the cracks between pavers, over expansion joints against the wall or in sheds, etc. Check the signal hole in the lid as you walk past or at least every 3 months.
The Products, Costs, Comparisons
Doing your own termite control makes sense.
You’d like to save money — but not risk your home for the sake of a dollar?
And you’d like to do it without poisons? You are on the right website.
Its a once off investment of a few hundred dollars which saves you thousands over the 10 years TermiteTraps are guaranteed to last.
You only need two products (apart from spare parts/refills).
- Colony Killer Termite Bait to kill termite nests
- TermiteTraps to place around your buildings.
- Not poisonous to humans, pets, birds or wildlife.
- Kills termite colonies because it is carried back by workers to their nest.
- Registered and approved by the APVMA in Canberra for homeowner use.
- Enough in a carton to kill a large colony or a couple of smaller colonies.
- What you don’t use will keep for many years.
- Already loaded with the timber the CSIRO recommends as most attractive.
- Place them on your garden, on pavers, over expansion joints. No digging.
- Space them about 3 metres apart.
- There are 22 in a carton; putting them around is a 15 minute job.
- The UV protected polypropylene case is guaranteed 10 years (will last longer)
- Easy to check by glancing at the hole in the lid as you walk past
- Easy to add bait to the Trap without disturbing the busy termite workers.
The 1:1 Kit is for surburban homes, 2:1 Kit is for those who may live on acreage and have sheds to protect. The 3:1 Kit is for properties with many sheds, stables, stock loading ramps, etc. There is 1 carton of Bait with each kit. You won’t need bait until you have live termites and you can always buy more when needed.
The cost / comparisonsSo, how does the TermiteTrap DIY System compare to others?
There are 2 types of DIY systems:
- Monitors buried in the ground
- Monitors placed above the ground
There are 2 types of DIY treatment:
- Most offer bait that affects termite moulting
- Others offer dust for you to use instead of bait. WARNING Dust, when it transfers, works faster, but be aware that a monitor buried in the ground is in a damp situations and most of the dust immediately sticks to the damp timber and mud. It is supposed to be picked up by passing termites for transfer back to the colony on the bodies or in the gut of the workers. If it is ‘stuck in the mud’ the transfer may not happen in sufficient quantity.
Termites have always known there is more food above the ground than under it. That’s why we put our TermiteTraps above ground where the scouts go looking. Trials proved monitors above the ground were found before any of those buried in the ground. Monitors are useless unless they are found!
So, how does the TermiteTrap DIY System compare to others?
We think ours is the best. Here’s why:
The Bait we offer is exactly the same formulation as used by professionals for the last 15 years — because it is reliable.
The TermiteTrap is the easiest of all to check for termites. The hole in the lid allows humidity to be lost and the termite instinct is to close the hole as soon as they arrive. A glance as you pass is all you need; being in the top lid, it is visible from all angles. Look at them every three months or so. (Provide us with your email address and we’ll remind you).
Monitors that are buried flush with the garden and lawn surface can be covered and lost — meaning you won’t know about it.
There is no digging among roots or rocks; you can place the 22 in about 15 minutes.
In summary: they work, they last and the bait need only be purchased if you have another colony threatening.
They are guaranteed for 10 years but being UV protected, will last much longer and can be can be re-used many times.
Water has been added to the bait pouch through the hole in the bottom and fixed over the hole in the Trap so workers can get inside to the bait.
TestimonialsReal comments by real people.
The TermiteTrap system is used by thousands of homeowners.
The big question everyone asks at first is:
Do The Traps Really Work?
Read these real comments by current customers.
FAQ'sThings you wonder about may be covered right here.
How do white ants/termites find Termite Traps?
Do monitors attract termites to my house?
My house is only three years old. It must have been built to meet Codes including termite preventive measures, and anyway, isn’t there a seven-year builder’s warranty to cover me?
If termites are already in my house can I use Termite Traps to entice them out?
I’ve bought a load of firewood for the winter and found termites in it. What do I do?
What are the dimensions of a TermiteTrap?
Is it legal for homeowners to buy and use your bait?
I’ve read about ‘serious’ and ‘nuisance’ termite species. How can I tell the difference?
How do termites get into the Trap?
My house was built more than twenty years ago and there has been no termite attack, why would I bother putting monitors around?
I understand termites can do $50,000 plus in damage to a house in a short time. Doing something about the termite threat is obviously sensible, however, aren’t chemical barriers better value, even though more costly than termite monitors?
What is a nest?
We have lots of ants which we know are the enemy of termites. Do we still have a termite problem?
Won’t dogs or kids move the Traps?
Is there a guarantee?
The Termite Treatment BlogArticles about termites, their control and treatment
FREE DIY termite control How To Guide
Download your Free Home Termite Control How To Guide
In this 16 pg illustrated guide you’ll learn:
- How to tell the difference between termites that are just a nuisance and those that are a threat.
- Assessing your Termite Risk depending on where you live and your house construction style
- How to do a professional termite extermination job yourself, at a cost a few hundred dollars – the same job a technician will charge thousands for.
- Killing termites inside timbers in your house, sheds, trees and mounds – Safely!
- How to protect your home with an ‘early warning system’, stopping termites in their tracks before they get to your house.
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